Professional Food, Travel, Bliss / satedepicure.com

Noma Copenhagen: Four Lessons Learned

Posted 04 Jun 2019 — by S.E.
Category Culinary Innovation

In the late spring when the weather turns for the better and the sky is blue, Copenhagen awakens from a cold slumber. The city is vibrant and pulsates with anticipation of summer. This is why I love starting my summer of research and development in Denmark at Noma – a name that blends the words Nordisk and Mad (the words Nordic and Food in English). We choose this time of year because it’s seafood season. A meal at Noma is not easily described, nor is it possible to do justice to the experience in a brief posting like this. I have far too much respect for chef Redzepi and the employees at Noma to attempt a summary. However, there are four lessons learned during this most recent visit:

1) When contemplating a protein – consider the whole animal. Work hard to find delicious and practical uses for all parts. We can do so much more with what we have (codfish tongues, swim bladder)

2) The art of fermentation and preservation yields products that lift the deliciousness of many foods (koji cakes, molded fermented barley, glazes, broths)

3) Sea vegetables are more diverse and delicious than we acknowledge (as infusions, extractions, pastes, garnishes, main ingredients, and serving vessels)

4) We can do more with technology to disclose to guests (and the world) the source of our foods. This includes geolocation of exactly what was caught, when it was caught, where it was caught, who caught it, how it was handled. (Arctic King Crab).

Noma is a global center of culinary innovation and influence – where deep effort and investment yield transformative results. Few teams work harder, are subject to such intense scrutiny, or so heavily influence the path we travel than Noma. Redzepi’s work ripples out from Copenhagen throughout Europe and the rest of the world. If you want to peer into the future – spend an evening at Noma.

1) Norwegian Sea Scallop –
Shucked only when the guest is seated. Served with a tiny bite of roe.

2) Seafood Platter of Carpet Clam, Venus Clam, Mohagany Clam, Razor Clam

3) Marinated Sweet Shrimp – formed into a sheet, dried until crisp. Folded over light mousse, flowers herbs

4) Grey Shrimp Cooked with Sea Lettuce, produced like a beautiful ravioli filled with delicious whole shrimp

5) Cured Turbot – Pine Frond skewers, fermented glaze, served on a basket of woven branches and a bed of sugar kelp.

6) Medium Rare Blue Shell Mussel – caviar garnish, on a bed of mixed sea vegetables and a hot sea vegetable and mushroom broth

7) Sea Urchin with Molded Fermented Barley – Koji cake – sugar kelp paste

8) Cod Bladder, Quince Paste, Preserved Fruits, Mussel Broth and Chili Oil – The swim bladder is a buoyancy control organ in many bony fish.

9) Cod Tongue Schnitzel, Flowers, on dried cod cheek bone

10) Salt Cod Pie, Crispy Milk Skin, with Leeks, Oyster Plant

13) Hot Smoked and Barbecued Arctic King Crab

Note the tag on the top of the photo – scan the code and it displays data about the crab

Sample of web link to place of origin for Arctic King Crab

14) King Crab Collar with Preserved Truffles

16) Salted and Dried Berries from Summer, Milk Curd, Candied Pine Cones, Juice of White Currants, Geranium, Seaweed Disks

17) Cardamom Scented Sea Star – a frozen treat made from cardamom saffron and licorice.

18) Chocolate Cod Skin – flavored with arctic herbs

Sugar Kelp Mise En Place for Turbot course

Noma Restaurant
Refshalevej 96
1432 Copenhagen K

Tags: Copenhagen, Culinary Innovation, Michelin Restaurants, Noma

Restaurant Boragó – Defining Chilean Cuisine

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Posted 12 Apr 2019 — by S.E.
Category Uncategorized

After decades in fallow – culinary innovation in Chile has accelerated in recent years and no restaurateur exemplifies this more than Chef Rodolfo Guzmán of Boragó. Chef Guzmán, a native of Chile, is giving voice to a culture and cuisine so deserving of our attention – one that until recently the world seemed to ignore. Boragó offers guests a deeply researched multi-course tasting menu derived from months of work scouring the length and breadth of Chile for ingredients and methodically testing these ingredients for flavor and aesthetic properties. To understand Guzmán and Boragó, one must understand the geography of Chile from where these ingredients come.

Chile is located on the southwestern coast of the South American continent. The country is narrow – approximately 60 miles wide in most places, and extremely long with a coastline of over 4,000 miles. The country is divided into 16 regions spanning Región de Arica y Parinacota bordering Peru in the North all the way to the southern-most Región de Magallanes in the Chilean Antarctic. Climate and geography are diverse with the Atacama Desert to the north, which is one of the driest places on earth, the snow-capped Andes Mountains which mark the western side of Santiago in the central part of the country, and the damp and biologically diverse Chilean Patagonia to the south spanning Los Lagos (region 10), Aysén (region 11), and Magallanes (regions 12). Chile’s leading export is copper which is found in Atacama followed by Salmon, which is farmed in regions 10, 11, and 12. Chile is the world’s second largest producer of Salmon after Norway.

Borago is in Santiago where 40 percent of the population of 18 million live. Since visiting the restaurant, it has relocated to a new home in the Vitacura district of Santiago. Chef Guzmán emailed me an announcement about the new location in March 2019 with excitement and joy. In addition to the restaurant, he has built an incredible state-of-the-art culinary research and development center which is destined to be one of the most important labs in South America.

Like other globally renowned chefs, he and his team conduct experimentation with native ingredients using culinary science. They also explore, and in some cases, revive techniques learned from indigenous peoples like the Mapuche Indians whose delicious smoked pepper known as Merken graces tables throughout the country. It is fascinating to see modern Chilean cuisine being developed as we watch. In the coming years I predict Chile will become known a world class culinary destination and someday in the future Chef Rodolfo Guzmán will be lauded as one of the founding fathers of this accomplishment. Boragó is delicious and Chef Rodolfo Guzmán a brilliant inspiration.

Langoustine Cake, Rock Salad, Koloff Sea Weed Broth

Red Plum Leaves, Grilled Duck on Miso of Murra

Lamb Cooked a la Inverse, Wild Apples of Patagonia

Borago

Av. San José María Escrivá de Balaguer 5970,

Región Metropolitana,

Chile.

www.borago.cl

Tags: @borago, @rgborago, @satedepicure, Chef Rudolfo Guzman, chilean cuisine, chilean restaurants, Culinary Innovation, Fine Dining, Worlds 50 Best

Foods of the Future: Sustainable, Functional, Sourced with Integrity

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Posted 21 Sep 2018 — by S.E.
Category Culinary Science and Innovation

September 21, 2018
Harvard Medical School, Boston, Massachusetts
James E. Griffin Ed.D.

Many of you know I am constantly scanning the horizon to determine where food (in general) and the culinary profession (more specifically) is headed. This quest has brought me to Harvard Medical School today and the 24^th annual conference of the Functional Foods Institute. After two days of seminars and reflection it is clear to me that the impact and use of functional foods is going to expand, joining other major forces that are reshaping our food system. This message isn’t new but it’s becoming amplified. The movement toward foods that are sustainable and sourced with integrity will be complimented by demand for foods that are also functional. A functional food is defined as “natural or processed foods that contain biologically active compounds; which, in defined, effective and non-toxic amounts, provide a clinically proven and documented health benefit utilizing specific biomarkers for the prevention, management, or treatment of chronic disease or its symptoms[i].” Highly technical research is underway to validate the “functionality” of a wide number of foods which serve as ingredients used daily in food manufacturing and commercial kitchens throughout the U.S. and the world. In the future we (chefs) will have extensive scientifically validated (clinical) data about the myriad ingredients we work with. During the conference multiple researchers shared the advanced science behind and impact of functional foods on health and wellness. Three of my favorites are summarized below.

Early on day one Dr. Uma Naidoo, Director of Nutritional and Lifestyle Psychiatry at Massachusetts General Hospital and Instructor of Psychiatry at Harvard Medical School presented. Dr. Naidoo is also a trained chef and serves as a culinary instructor at Cambridge School of Culinary Arts. Her research focuses on nutritional psychiatry and five key target areas: the immune system, oxidative stress, brain plasticity, epigenetic modifications, and the microbiome-gut-brain axis. She was quoted recently in a fascinating Wall Street Journal story on foods that target depression and anxiety. The story featured Chef Jessica Largey and her struggle with anxiety and depression and quotes Dr. Naidoo. Largey, a former Chef de Cuisine at Manresa restaurant in Los Gatos, CA., found recovery by modifying her diet for optimal brain health following principles shared by Dr. Naidoo during her presentation. She is back on track and recently opened the widely acclaimed Simone in Los Angeles. Chef Largey’s story is a case study. Brain health requires effort and evidence is mounting that certain dietary compounds including long-chain omega 3 fatty acids (EPA & DHA) offer significant health benefits. However, few chefs are aware of the literature. We need to spend time understanding this research for our own benefit and the benefit of our customers. Imagine a future when Chefs manage the psychological and physical intensity of the profession through a healthy diet and lifestyle. Imagine a day when such practice is incorporated in to menu planning. Many will benefit. It’s worth the effort.

Above, I am pictured with Dr. Leena Pradhan-Nabzdyk (right), CEO of Canomiks (and assistant professor of surgery at Harvard Medical School), and Dr. Ruud Albers (center) CEO of NutriLeads in the Netherlands. The photo was taken after Pradhan-Nabzdyk’s presentation on her brilliant research. Canomiks, of Cambridge, MA., has identified the relationship of 250+ herbs and 35 micronutrients with 20000+ human genes using a proprietary technology called “Gene Tune®.” This technology enables efficacy in targeting specific chronic conditions with herbs and supplements or simply provides increased effectiveness of general purpose and wellness supplements and functional foods. Her work is mind-blowing from a culinary perspective. Imagine a future where the herbs and ingredients we use are chosen because of their scientifically proven efficacy in promoting health in addition to their sensory properties and supply chain integrity. Her work will add a new dimension to how we think about food and ingredients. Those who ignore this work will be left behind.

Image © Canomics

On day two we heard from Dr. Albers, formerly an executive with Unilever. NutriLeads is a health ingredients company identifying and developing crop-derived products with a clinically proven positive impact on human health. They are engaged in research focused on foods that boost immune function and microbiota using ingredients chefs work with on a regular basis (carrots at present). The company moves each ingredient through its system from analysis and product development to clinical trials in an effort to scientifically demonstrate efficacy. How many suppliers do you know that are taking this approach? As the demand for functional foods that have been validated increases the supply chain will evolve. Albers is way ahead of the curve and will be one of the first to provide the profession with clean, natural, validated, functional ingredients.

Over the past two days cutting-edge information was shared including 30 presentations across eight categories or themes. I leave this conference with a perspective on the future of ingredients and the competencies food professionals and chefs must have to keep pace with these major developments. Professionals will be required to know and understand the definition for “functional foods” and how clinically functional the ingredients they use are (or aren’t). Smart chef’s will stay ahead of the curve and build functional food competency now in preparation for future product development and menu planning not to mention personal health and wellbeing per chef Largey. Congratulations to Dr. Danik Martirosyan of the Functional Foods Institute for assembling an excellent and diverse conference program.

[i] http://www.functionalfoodscenter.net/

Tags: Culinary Innovation, Food Health and Wellness, Foods of the Future, Functional Foods

Memories of Chef Roger Fessaguet

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Posted 04 Apr 2017 — by S.E.
Category Warms My Heart

https://youtu.be/c_TAHNL-JRk

Tonight I quietly dedicated service in the Bistro to Roger Fessaguet one of the most important chefs in the history of New York City and one who deserves to occupy our memories and hearts. April 2^nd was the third anniversary of his passing and I think of him every year on this day. For 20 years Roger was chef at New York’s four-star La Caravelle restaurant on West 55^th street (near 5^th avenue) starting when it opened in 1960 until his retirement from the kitchen in 1980. Back in February of 2012 I spent three days with Roger at his home in West Palm Beach Florida recording his stories and blanketing him with the respect and compassion he deserved at such a late stage in his life.

Roger Fessaguet, Jim Griffin, Jean Jacques Dietrich

We were brought together by my mentor and good friend Chef Jean Jacques Dietrich – a lifelong friend of Fessaguet. Dietrich lived with me when he first started teaching after retiring from the New York Athletic Club and we have remained close ever since. It was Dietrich’s idea to visit with Roger and record a bit of his history – an act of deep respect and love from one great chef to another.

Prior to visiting Roger time was spent reflecting on what life might be like at the end of a long career in foodservice. What happens when the world no longer pays attention after decades of adoration? What is life like when the spotlight dims then darkens – is there sadness or joy, bitterness or grace? What do the best chefs in the world value most after a career has ended and the sun begins to set on a life well lived.

Roger never expressed regret for being a chef and remained fulfilled by a magnificent career even later in life. He spoke at length about his great chef friends including Pierre Franey, Jacques Pepin, Jean Jacques, and Andre Soltner. He loved reflecting back on life at La Caravelle, sharing wonderful memories of his staff and customers like Ambassador Joseph Kennedy, Salvador Dali, and others. An intellectual, he kept meticulous records and documentation including thousands of pages or recipes, reservation books, floor plans, sales records, menus, and memorabilia. Reviewing and sharing these materials brought him great joy. And he loved talking about his late wife Anne Marie who shared his journey until she passed away in 1985. Fessaguet had no regrets, he loved being a chef, loved the Franco culinary community and culture of New York in the 1960’s, remained a captivated culinary intellectual until the day he died and never stopped loving his beautiful wife Anne Marie.

One of Fessaguet’s Chef’s Knifes – West Palm Beach Florida 2012

Of the many anecdotes and stories shared by Fessaguet my favorite is his description of finishing a summer night of service at La Caravelle and jumping into his Porsche with Anne Marie for a high-speed 390 mile ride to his beloved cottage in Chamberlain, Maine. He and Anne Marie would roll the windows down in the car and floor it while driving north, scanning for police all the way to the cottage. Arriving around 5:00 in the morning, I can only imagine the two of them collapsing into bed with the sun just rising over Muscongus Bay and Haddock Island. When Roger told this story his posture softened, his eyes sparkled, and his heart grew warm. He loved his cottage in Maine.

Fessaguet’s beloved “Finistere” Cottage, Long Cove Point, Maine

(this painting hung over Fessaguets sofa in West Palm Beach Florida)

He also made me laugh when I asked him about the restaurant name “La Caravelle “ and he joked about how so many people got the story wrong. Most, including the New York Times, incorrectly claim the restaurant was named after the small sailing ships used by Christopher Columbus – Fessaguet found this funny. The restaurant was actually named after the Caravelle jetliner built by French firm Sud Aviation in the 1950’s. It was on one of these aircraft that Chef Fessaguet flew for the first time – that the aircraft was French built made it all the sweeter. Such a fitting name for a restaurant that took flight the minute it opened in 1960.

https://youtu.be/aXGVIzZ9z4o

Chef Roger Discusses the Culinary Brigade at Le Pavillon Restaurant

Roger was a great man and I remain thankful for having known him and for the tremendous impact he made on our profession. Few chefs have been as influential or demonstrated as much professionalism. Today we all stand on Roger’s shoulders, he is a true pillar of American gastronomy and he lives on in the many generations of chefs that are prospering today because of the path paved. Great chefs never fade away – they live on in the many generations of chefs whose lives they impacted and whose professions they improved. At 82 years of age, the last trip he took prior to passing was back to Maine for one more visit to his beloved cottage. One last visit to the cottage filled with Anne Marie’s spirit and such joyous memories – the cottage purchased through the blood, sweat, and tears of hard work at La Caravelle. Roger never returned to Florida – he passed away shortly after visiting his cottage in a nursing home in Damariscotta. Rest easy friend.

Tags: Chef Roger Fessaguet, Legends, Mentors, New York Chefs

Smyth Chicago

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Posted 25 Mar 2017 — by S.E.
Category Fine Dining, Full Service

Tonight I visit Smyth in Chicago with wonderful anticipation after reflecting on how our stories converge. Back in the 1990’s and 2000’s when I wanted a great meal in Chicago I would visit Charlie Trotters and it was there that I first saw Karen Urie (now Shields) at work. Charlie introduced Karen as she passed me in the kitchen while I was hovering after an incredible meal. Karen prospered at Trotters prior to moving on with her (now) husband John Shields and this speaks to her strength and character. When I heard that Karen and John Shields opened Smyth in Chicago it warmed my heart – a culinary duo with a fantastic lineage paying it forward and inspiring a new generation of cooks and chefs. I placed Smyth on the top of my list for my next visit to Chicago.

Unfortunately I had a very limited window of time to visit Smyth – it had to be upon arrival to Chicago. My flight in was delayed but I was able to make my reservation – bouncing up the stairs to the door to Smyth right on schedule. One foot in the door and I am warmly greeted: “you must be Mr. Griffin – welcome, thank you for joining us tonight.” I love it when the FOH crew is ready and organized. Though dining alone isn’t always my preference, the team at Smyth placed me at a fantastic table within easy view of the pass and kitchen. It took all of five minutes to relax, order a Manhattan (with Rye) and start my journey.

When I benchmark a great restaurant my goal is always to observe the details and to take what I learn back to my students. It is a challenge to remain fresh and current in a complex and constantly changing industry but evenings like the one I experienced at Smyth keep me inspired. Words fall short in expressing the warmth and hospitality that flows at Smyth. Their come-as-you-are philosophy, and casual but elegant dining room aesthetic rains with relaxation. You won’t find white linen or stuffy servers here but you will find gorgeous walnut tables, classic Hans Wegner Kennedy chairs, and curated tableware. This is dining built on years of experience, mastery, and complexity rendered with integrity and purity. Congratulations Karen and John – thank you for a wonderful evening and for the inspiration. Best and blessings to you and your team.

Maitake, Spruce, and Sassafras Tea

Salted & Frozen Radish, Oyster, and Seaweed

Dungeness Crab & Foie Gras with Scrambled Kani Miso

Shima Aji Seasoned With Its Fish Sauce and Spicy Plants

Shima Aji Ribs, Barbequed Over the Hearth

Uni Taco

Caramelized Potato & Sunchoke with Dried Scallop and Trout

Dried Corn Tartlet with Squab Liver Mousse

Roast Squab, Black Walnuts, Grains, and Apple

Brioche Doughnut with Aged Beef Au Jus, Ribeye of Beef, Wasabi, and Brussels Sprouts

Pickled Onions with Lamb, Black Allium, and Black Truffle

Milk Chocolate, Huckleberry, and Preserved Shiitake Mushroom

Egg Yolk Soaked in Salted Licorice with Frozen Yogurt Meringue

Carrot Sorbet, Pine Pollen, Honey, and Sour Quince Curd

Lovage Stem and Carrots Coaxed into Licorice

Smyth Restaurant

177 N Ada St #101,

Chicago, IL 60607

Tags: Chicago Fine Dining, Chicago Restaurants

Paul Bocuse – Auberge du Pont de Collonges

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Posted 27 Jan 2017 — by S.E.
Category Fine Dining, Travel, Warms My Heart

When I first met Paul Bocuse back in 1990 he was visiting the United States and made a stop in Rhode Island. I was assigned to be his assistant and spent a glorious stretch of time working side by side with his team preparing some of his classic dishes for a series of demonstrations and lectures including his iconic Truffle Soup and Rouget barbet en écailles de pommes de terre croustillantes (his famous Rouget with potato scales). The food was extremely simple, it wasn’t intimidating at all. Yet each dish had a certain level of complexity at the same time. His team worked with camaraderie and precision using strong classical technique. As an eager yet inexperienced 24 year old – his they treated me with incredible patience and grace, sharing advice and technique generously while remaining poised as I worked hard to do things correctly. My nerves and nervousness gradually transitioned to focus because of how well they managed me.

Painted Panel depicting Auguste Escoffier, Alexandre Dumaine, and Fernand & Mado Point

I was unaware of the importance of my experience that day though one of my mentors, Chef Jean Michel Vienne, did try to help me understand the depth and gravity of time spent in the kitchen cooking with Bocuse. Vienne explained in his heavy accent (he’s from Marseilles) how slicing black truffles with Bocuse himself is a once in a lifetime event. His comments went in one ear and out the other as I focused on the slicing with Bocuse looking over my shoulder steadily providing instructions translated by Vienne. Like so many things in life – it wasn’t until years later that I realized what a gift it was to work with Bocuse even if just for a short period of time. At one point Bocuse touched my shoulder, smiled and gestured for me to keep working. Today my eyes well up just thinking about it. As our time together ended Bocuse took pictures with me and Chef Vienne and signed our books and menus. He departed in a flash for New York offering to host us at Auberge du Pont de Collonges – leaving me with several ounces of fresh black winter truffles to enjoy (a treat I had never worked with until then).

Jean Michel Vienne, Chef Paul Bocuse, James Griffin – 1990

For multiple reasons it wasn’t until 26 years later that I finally found my way to Lyon. Every time I worked to adjust a trip to Europe to visit Lyon the timing didn’t work. Then in the summer of 2016 things worked out and I was able to bring my daughter to Bocuse for dinner with a group of friends. To say that visiting Auberge du Pont de Collonges with my nearly grown daughter was a surreal experience is an understatement. Life has a way of taking twists and turns. She’s eaten at some of the best restaurants the world but to visit Bocuse with her (and her best friend) was overwhelming and beautiful. We were seated in the main salon, treated like royalty, and afforded the best restaurant experience ever. That Bocuse and his team have been doing this at a “Three Star” level for more than 50 years leaves me speechless. He and his team are culinary athletes of the first order.

As chefs we all stand on Bocuse’s shoulders. There are few if any who have done more to elevate our profession with such dignity, respect, grace, and consistency than Bocuse. When you consider the duration of his status as one of the best restaurants in the there is no comparison. Chef Bocuse, you make us better and elevate our profession. As a chef, I am forever grateful.

Salade de homard à la française

Escalope de foie gras de canard poêlée sauce passion

Rougets barbets en écailles de pomme de terre croustillantes

Granité des vignerons du Beaujolais

Pigeon en feuilleté au chou nouveau

Sélection de fromages frais et affinés “Mère Richard”

(Counter Clockwise : Comte, Fourme d’ambert, St. Marcellin, Tomme de Savoie)

Crème Chocolate et griotte

Baba ah Rhum “Tradition”

Gâteau président Maurice Bernachon

Délices et gourmandizes, Petits fours et chocolats

Dining Room

Kitchen

Place Setting

Menu: Auberge du Pont de Collonges MENU BOURGEOIS

Paul Bocuse – Auberge du pont de Collonges

40 Quai de la Plage

69660 Collonges au Mont d’Or

Tél. : 04 72 42 90 90

Tags: Auberge du pont de Collonges, Classic French Cuisine, Fine Dining, Paul Bocuse, Three Michelin Stars, Worlds Best Restaurants

Eleven Madison Park Revisited

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Posted 10 Jan 2017 — by S.E.
Category Fine Dining

It’s always nice to start the year with a benchmark visit to an excellent restaurant. I never take for granted how blessed and fortunate we are to have the opportunity to explore the food, beverage, and service at the best restaurants in the world. The creativity is amazing and every visit results in deep learning and reflection that I take back to my classroom and to life in general. This year we begin with a visit to Eleven Madison Park. It’s a Saturday evening at 7:00 pm and we have a prime table reserved for six (a wonderful group of chef-friends I have known for 25+ years). When we arrive we are treated like royalty – everyone is. We waltz over to our six-top round and take our seats. It isn’t long before we settle in for an awesome ride. Being here feels like flying first class on a great airline or taking a ride in my neighbors Mercedes S63 AMG – its so well engineered and thought-out, the experience and environment are luxurious and exciting while also comfortable, and relaxing. Lighting is great, acoustics are refined, spacing is excellent (there’s plenty of room to move) and the company I am sharing is world-class. It’s so darn easy to settle in here.

It isn’t long before the food starts to arrive. First there’s the mystery box with a savory cookie. You have to interact with this item and open it to enjoy it. Next a sampling of delicate hors d’ oeuvres presented in a set of artisan wooden boxes – the boxes themselves are striking. When the caviar Benedict comes the simplicity and contrasting flavor and texture is pure culinary craftsmanship at its highest level (this dish was mind-blowing) not to mention the custom embossed tin the dish is served in. Every item we experience is exceptional – in many cases producing pure awe and joy. Then we visit the kitchen for a standing course while observing service in action.

The kitchen at Eleven Madison Park is the epitome of professionalism. It is so nice to see a spotless back-of-house running like a Swiss watch. Every member of the culinary brigade in production has a pristine chef coat and hat, the kitchen is immaculate, every station is organized; you can hear a pin drop it’s running so smoothly. Though Eleven Madison Park is inspired by the tenets and philosophy of Jazz, executive sous chef Brian Lockwood’s kitchen is more like a well conducted symphony its so smooth. I don’t overlook how hard this is to achieve and have a new benchmark for my own practice. Humbled is an understatement.

And so it goes throughout the evening – incredible food paired with a refined and precise eye for all the tiny details in service, service-ware, guest interaction, timing, temperature, and aroma. This is hospitality, luxury, and craftsmanship at its highest level and it brings me such joy to see how far our profession has evolved over the past 30 years. I send warmest gratitude to Chef Daniel Humm and his partner Will Guidara, Manager Billy Peelle, Chef de Cuisine Dmitri Magi, Executive Sous Chef Brian Lockwood and our Maitre d’ Todd Holtry. Thank you Eleven Madison Park for teaching us what the finest hospitality is supposed to be like.

Black and White – Savory Cookie with Apple and Cheddar

Celery Root with Black Truffle, Salsify with Garlic and Thyme, Parsnip Pie, Rutabaga with Celery and Walnuts

Caviar Benedict with Smoked Sturgeon, Ham, and Pickled Egg Yolk

Crab with Sea Urchin, Kohlrabi, and Apple

Foie Gras Seared with Brussels Sprouts and Lemon

Lobster, Butter Poached with Rutabaga and Pear

Striped Bass Poached with Fennel and Clams

In the Kitchen – It Takes Many Years to Grow Old Friends!

Kitchen Course:

Foie Gras Bon Bon – Pear Ginger Syrup Center, Candied Hazelnut Crust

Hermann J. Weimer “Noble Select” Riesling

Celery Root Braised with Black Truffle

Beets Roasted with Onions and Almonds

Duck, Honey and Lavender Glazed with Turnip and Huckleberry

Cheddar Tart with Apple and Mixed Greens

Pear Sorbet with Caramelized White Chocolate and Riesling

Chocolate “Name that Flavor”

Pretzel with Sea Salt

St. George Eleven Madison Park Apple Brandy Eau De Vie

Morning After! The Best Granola Ever – Thank you EMP

Eleven Madison Park

11 Madison Avenue,

New York, NY 10010

212.889.0905

info@elevenmadisonpark.com

Tags: 3 Michelin Stars, Best Restaurants, Eleven Madison Park, Fine Dining, James Beard Award Winner, Michelin Starred Restaurants, Three Michelin Stars

Top Ten Dishes of 2016

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Posted 30 Dec 2016 — by S.E.
Category Fine Dining

To say 2016 was busy is an understatement. Projects and associated travel spanned my roles as an educator, board member, executive advisor, consultant and volunteer. The year included major trips to Chicago, Seattle, Paris, Washington DC, Athens and Thessaloniki Greece, Lyon France, and Vevey Switzerland. There were multiple side trips all over New England and visits to just over 50 full service restaurants – it was a great year and I am blessed to have the opportunity to constantly explore and benchmark across all sectors and segments of the food industry. There were so many great meals and dishes I am still vacillating over numbers 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10 with two dozen other dishes that could be included. However, my top five are locked in. As of now – here’s my top ten list for the year. It’s only natural that many of these are seafood!

#10 – L’Olivier, Vevey, Suisse – Lac Leman Perch, Summer Vegetables, Olives, Pine Nuts

Restaurant L’Olivier at Hostellerie Bon Rivage is special – Vegetables come from extensive gardens facing the lake and seafood is sourced from Christophe & Christine Liechti of Pecherie du Leman. My early evening trip to the terrace to sip Rosé and enjoy the local fresh perch proved incredible.

#9 – Matsuhisa, Aspen – Coconut Mochi Cake, Miso Caramel, Blackberry Lavender Ice Cream

Our visits to Aspen always include a trip to Matsuhisa for sushi and other treats – we love the place. The Coconut Mochi Cake with Ice Cream during this visit was over the top. It’s a staple on the menu now – absolutely delicious and simple.

#8 – Roister, Chicago – Foie Gras, Black Walnuts, Pretzel, Marshmallow Bar

It isn’t unusual for me to visit Chicago at least one or twice during the year. This year included three trips and on the second visit we dined at the recently opened Roister. Black Sabbath was blaring on the sound system when we sat down and the huge garage doors onto the sidewalk were open – the restaurant was absolutely electric and the food spectacular culminating with a deceptively delicious Foie Gras dessert bar that had me wanting to eat the plate it was served on.

#7 – Cosme, New York – Crispy Octopus, Hazelnut Mole Pickled Potatoes, Watercress

Chef Enrique Olvera was banging around in the kitchen the night I visited Cosme. While on property he controls the sound system from his iPhone and every time he came out of the kitchen the music got louder. The room was pulsing with energy when I took a seat at the bar and had the bartender order for me. Of the many samples I tried, the octopus was spectacular. Not the prettiest dish of the year but one of the best tasting…and taste always wins!

#6 – The Lost Kitchen, Freedom Maine – Tomatoes with Many Basils

I didn’t expect chef Erin French to be so damn charming and talented. Her restaurant has more soul than 90% of those I visited this past year. It doesn’t have the striking gravitas of Bocuse or the virtuosity of Alinea – it has something else though: a magnetic energy and the soul of an entire villiage. French’s tomatoes with many basils isn’t just delicious – it is a metaphor for the hope and future of the community surrounding the restaurant. Fabulous is an understatement.

#5 – Pineapple and Pearls – Sturgeon and White Beets, Matsutake

It is unprecedented when a newly minted chef-owner realizes his operation is all about the people involved including employees, guests, suppliers, vendors and the surrounding community. Chef Aaron Silverman knew this right from the beginning. I am a huge fan and his Sturgeon with Beets was so delicious that the thought of it still lingers.

#4 – Oberlin, Providence – Marinated Mussels, Garlic Chive, Sweet Potato

When Ben and Heidi Sukle’s Oberlin was awarded #7 best new restaurant in America by Bon Appetit magazine in 2016 it gave me great joy. I have known Ben for years and always loved his food but felt he went unrecognized – until now. My wife and I enjoyed dinner with Ben in the fall and his Marinated Mussels instantly became a top five dish of the year. They’re perfect. My heart fills with happiness as I see Ben and Heidi prosper!

#3 – Pierre Herme, Paris – Macarons

Our trip to Paris included an obligatory visit to Pierre Herme (the Rue Bonaparte location) for patisseries, macarons and cocolats. Herme and I met at the StarChefs conference back in 2011 and he’s an absolute gentleman. We expected excellence – our expectations were exceeded. There’s a reason Herme was named best pastry chef in the world in 2016.

#2 – Alinea, Chicago – Scallop with Corn Consommé, Shio Kombu, Nori

When dining in the gallery at Alinea one has to expect the unexpected. However, there was no way I could come close to anticipating how over-the-top delicious this scallop and corn consommé would be. The technique, precision, and absolute restraint used to produce this dish is evidence of passion, brilliance, and mastery – the purest form of elegant simplicity and deliciousness. The consommé crystal clear – the scallops dried into crispy sheets that melt into pasta like “noodles” when hydrated! This is the best thing I put in my mouth all year – period!

#1 – Paul Bocuse L’Auberge du Pont de Collognes, Lyon, France – Lobster salad ‘à la Française’

Choosing the best dish of the year is never easy but my mind was made up after eating at L’Auberge du Pont de Collognes though it was only June. My rationale is fairly simple: in an industry that chews and spits out restaurants and chefs as often as the changing tide, Bocuse has maintained three Michelin starts for 50 consecutive years. He’s the greatest chef of all time – period. My meal at Bocuse was old-school French in every way – and it was gorgeous. Service was perfect and the ambiance exceptional. I was washed over with the best hospitality I have received in years. Dining at Bocuse was one of the happiest meals of my life! Thank you chef!

Tags: Best Dishes of 2016, Best of 2016, Delicious, Fine Dining

Pineapple and Pearls: “In the People Business”

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Posted 18 Dec 2016 — by S.E.
Category Fine Dining, Full Service

Chef Aaron Silverman’s team centered philosophy is primary cause for why I rearranged my schedule to include a dinner at his restaurant Pineapple and Pearls in the Barracks Row neighborhood just north of the Navy Yard in Washington DC. Though I did notice the two-star nod the Guide Michelin gave Pineapple and Pearls back in October, Silverman’s December 2015 TedEx talk 2015 is what really caught my attention. His heartfelt presentation centered on the connection between building and maintaining an outstanding team and achieving overall greatness. I couldn’t agree more with his perspective and I had to see for myself.

His first restaurant Rose’s Luxury won best new restaurant recognition by both Bon Appetit and GQ magazines in 2014. The restaurant was a game changer for the local restaurant scene and for the Silverman himself. Its customer centered casual feel paired with incredible – approachable food drew rave reviews and a steady stream of guests willing to cue up on the sidewalk in order to score a table upon opening. But behind the scenes Silverman focused on creating an environment and culture that would draw in the best talent. An environment where people want to work and that employees look forward to being part of.

My experience at Pineapple and Pearls provided deep evidence Silverman’s approach is working. It was illuminated by steady warmth and hospitality on a freezing December night. His team exceeded my expectation from start to finish and though the food was outstanding (the sturgeon rose was sublime) the service and beverage program was even better. Beverage director Jeff Faile has crafted an incredible program and one of the finest pairings I have had. We spent 20 minutes chatting in the kitchen after my experience (I sat at the bar for service). His approach is straight forward; he seeks great products that align perfectly with each dish on the tasting menu and he doesn’t leave non-alcoholic options as an afterthought. The non-alcoholic offerings were compelling, complex, and perfectly paired. Not an easy task. The Paliokerisio wine from Greece (grape varietals white Debina and red Vlahiko) was a favorite as was the alcohol free Jörg Geiger PriSecco sparkling cider made just east of Stuttgart in Germany. This is the kind of talent Silverman is attracting. What a great role model and example.

When a leader builds an authentic and engaging culture of excellence the impact of all involved is significantly amplified and Silverman has clearly figured this out. 2016 has been good to him – his recognition by Michelin was preceded by a Best Chef Mid Atlantic award by the James Beard Foundation. This is tangible evidence that leadership matters. Silverman ends his TedEx talk stating: “I’m in the people industry – it just so happens that I work at a restaurant.” If people are his product – he should have three stars instead of two!

Fennel Absinthe Bonbon

Crispy Yuba, Cured Trout Roe, Garden Herbs

Beef Tar Tar, Caviar (retired dairy cow loin)

Sweet Shrimp, Ajo Blanco (almond gazpacho), Mixed Grapes, Cilantro

Sturgeon Rose, White Beets, Matsutake

Mustard Green Agnolotti, Parmesan, Greyson and Ricotta Cheese, Huitaloche, Mustard, Mushroom Kombocha Squash Gastrique

Atlantic Cod, Fall Vegetables, Pigs Head Terrine, Crispy Garlic, Garlic Fumet

Beef Loin Presentation –

Homage to DC Steakhouse – Dry Aged Rib Eye, Béarnaise, Truffle Pepper Cream, Popovers with Wild Mushrooms, Potato Onion Tart

Cheese Presentation

Warm Greyson Cheese, Purple Sweet Potato Brioche, Pawpaw Butter

Satsuma, Labneh Sorbet, Hibiscus & Whey Soda

Granny Smith Apple Crostata, Sundae Bar of Dark Chocolate, Tarragon, Olive Oil Sorbets, Lemon Glaze, Toasted Coconut

Cookies – Sesame Fortune Cookie, Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough with Red Walnut, Snickerdoodle

Coffee and Pistachio Shortbread Afterwards

Pineapple and Pearls

715 8th Street SE, Washington, DC

pineappleandpearls.com

Tags: Chef Aaron Silverman, James Beard Award Winner, Michelin Starred Restaurants, Pineapple and Pearls, Two Michelin Stars, Washington D.C. Restaurants

David Kinch – Manresa – Identity & Place

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Posted 19 Nov 2016 — by S.E.
Category Fine Dining, Travel, Warms My Heart

manresa-dining-room

Reflection is such a powerful process and I constantly grind away comparing what I learn each day with what I assume to already know. It isn’t unusual to find major gaps and sometimes when a gap is filled it leaves me feeling encouraged and moved. Hearing David Kinch describe his philosophy in such simple and elegant terms was such a profound learning moment. A student had posed a question to Kinch leaning toward what drives him – what inspires him. His answer took us back to an early meal with Alain Chapel that reset his outlook and philosophy. A seminal eating experience that resulted in clarity and purpose – the kind every one of us seeks. Kinch looked me in the eye and articulated that everything they do at Manresa is reflective of who they are and where they are – lessons learned, in part, at Alain Chapel. A powerful lesson about identity and place that Kinch explains so easily – the complexity of his message honed by years of hard work and experience.

The definitions are simple. Identity: the qualities and beliefs, that make a particular person or group different from others[i]. Place: a specific area or region of the world, a particular country, city, town[ii]. Chapel provided Kinch with a gift at a very early stage in his development and, in turn, Kinch offers a road map for how to truly engage our craft. Our hospitality identity is who we are. Discover it early and with integrity and you are halfway there. Place is where we are in all its beautiful and natural forms – discover this early and you will find your way home. We must know who we are in the hospitality profession – and build on (strengthen) this identity, and we must honor where we are in the world. What a wonderful and insightful message.

Three years earlier I dined at Manresa and visited with David. The meal was one of the top three in my life up to that point. After hearing Kinch’s philosophy in greater detail, the nuances of identity and place presented in that menu are even more profound. It was woven with ingredients from Los Gatos, and the Pacific coast region the restaurant inhabits. Identity was manifest in the classical and modern techniques employed along with hints at Kinch’s Louisiana heritage. Twenty courses of gorgeous cuisine of the highest standard. Such incredible hospitality and service so reflective of the pacific coast aesthetic – of Kinch’s identity and place.

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