Next week, I predict that NEXT restaurant in Chicago will win “Best New Restaurant” at the 2012 James Beard Foundation Awards and that Chef Dave Beran will win “Rising Star Chef of the Year”. My rationale for this prediction is based primarily on the incredible success Beran, Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas have had launching what I consider to be one of the most innovative and technically successful new restaurants in American history.
If you follow NEXT you already know that to dine there you have to buy tickets for the menu being offered, that only sixty four seats are available each night and that tickets for each three month run sell out in minutes. Pretty innovative huh (albeit old news now that Kokonas and Achatz have proven the model). The food community also knows that Beran and his team execute each menu flawlessly (there have been three menus to date: Paris 1906, Thailand, Childhood and now El Bulli (Sicily and Kyoto are soon to follow). Each time NEXT offers a new menu the creative team at the restaurant completely reinvents the experience, resetting the entire table top, service ware, menu, production and service. That these guys can shift themes every three months from Paris 1906 to Thailand (including a rave review by the N.Y. Times), turn the corner and take on Achatz’s and Beran’s memories from childhood in the 70’s and 80’s in menu form and then run a 29 course El Bulli menu three months after that (to extreme accuracy) is unheard of; a feat of super-culinary capacity and sheer determination. NEXT is the best new restaurant in the U.S. and, probably, one of if not the most innovative restaurant in the world today.
NEXT Restaurant Kitchen
Recently, I had an opportunity to enjoy the El Bulli menu and visit with sous chef Rene Deleon (Beran and Achatz were in Kyoto conducting research for that future menu). Deleon and the rest of his culinary crew are all fresh faced, young and of fighting weight. They hustle with kinetic energy in the kitchen while performing their roles with precision. They love what they do and covet the experience. Deleon in particular praises the opportunity to work at NEXT and the incredible leadership provided by Beran and Achatz. He relays his perspective while filling his purchase order for the following day’s comestibles, sitting at a table at 1:10 am in the morning as though it’s 4:00 pm in afternoon (his work day is nearly done). He lives the nocturnal life, the life of a cook where daylight is for sleeping (it off) and nighttime is for work and play; where you go home when the sun is rising not when it sets. A life the public rarely ever sees but one that serves as the basis for an underground culinary culture that we all love or have learned to love to be successful.
And that’s my point. NEXT thrives as a restaurant, a business, an art-form and aesthetic within the culinary realm. And it delivers. Beran, Achatz and Kokonas will receive the recognition they deserve at the 2012 James Beard Foundation awards. Kudos and congratulations in advance, I know of no other team that could pull off such a wonderful launch as these guys and the women and men who work for them. What an incredible American culinary and cultural asset. I can’t wait to see what’s NEXT.
Nitro Caipirinha with Tarragon Concentrate
Dry Snacks: Puffed Rice Black Pudding, Nori Cracker, Black Olive Butterflies, Puffed Coffee Polenta,
Puffed Saffron Tapioca, Parmesan Crackers, Lotus Flower Chips, Pork Rinds
Hot/Cold Trout Roe Tempura
Spherical Olives
Coca of Avocado Pear, Anchovies and Green Onion
Iberico Sandwich
Golden Quail Egg
Black Sesame Spongecake and Miso
Chicken Liquid Croquettes
Orange and Cardamom Bitters for Malaga Moscatel
Smoke Foam
Carrot Air with Coconut Milk
Cuttlefish and Coconut Ravioli with Soy, Ginger and Mint
Savory Tomato Ice with Oregano and Almond Milk Pudding
Hot Crab Aspic with Mini Corn Cous-Cous
Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc
NEXT Diningroom
Cauliflower Cous-Cous with Solid Aromatic Herb Sauce
Suquet of Prawns
Potato Tortilla by Marc Singla
Trumpet Carpaccio with Rabbit Kidneys
Red Mullet Gaudi
Nasturtium with Eel, Bone Marrow and Cucumber
Civet of Rabbit with Hot Apple Jelly
Rabbit Civet up close
Gorgonzola Globe (Gorgonzola bechemel siphoned into a balloon, frozen via rotation in liquid nitrogen),
topped with fresh grated nutmeg tableside
Foie Gras Caramel Custard
Spice Plate (guests play a game of identifying each of the 12 flavors placed around the perimeter of the plate)
Mint Pond (Mint Powder, Muscovado Sugar, Macha Tea Powder)
Chocolate in Textures
Chocolate Donuts
Creme Flute and Puff Pastry Web
Morphings:
Jules Verne Lollipops, Chocolate and Puffed Rice, Yogurt Croquant and Raspberry Lolly, White Chocolate, Lemon and Coffee Lolly, Star Anise and Mandarin Lolly, Raspberry Kebab with Balsamic Caramel Cloud
Passionfruit Marshmallow – The Farewell
NEXT Restaurant
953 West Fulton Market
Chicago, Illinois 60607
(312) 226-0858
